Cupang Fish Maintenance- Fish World

Are you interested to maintain decorative hickey? To get the type of good, there are a few suggestions for that.
Guard that is still potential (young). Provided that is not disabled, male pairs, healthy and frisky. Note the color of the body that should be bright, harmonious colors, evenly distributed, both in body and siripnya and bermental steel.
According to the experience of the experts, to obtain the decorative potential hickey that is not as good bakalan hickey get complaints. For hickey tub more easily seen excess rather than the type of physical complaints that are considered must also fighter style, whose specification and other behavior that is often difficult to guess if you do not see themselves. Meanwhile, complaints have not hickey quality guaranteed only with figure view.
Hickey Age is potential to be the ideal range 1,5-5 months. In age, the price is cheaper if purchased rather than the adults. After all he witnessed the rise and grow big, have a distinctive absorption. Currently hickey contest for age 3-5 months with Yunior category.
To provide hickey that won the contest in the future, need to exercise. Training is conducted at a fish that is ideal 1,5-2 months with the ideal means for development. Like to train prospective athletes, should also be introduced since early "contestant techniques."
The steps as follows. When we have a way to buy, hickey to include in the aquarium and given soliter inter-insulator other aquarium. Water used should be replaced once every three days. Nafsu eat to stay awake, chloraminei ammonia water is added to the dose of 2 ml each 2.5 liters of water.
In the morning, open the screen at half height of the water for ten minutes. Hickey this aim to be at each other and to develop siripnya-fin in the water.
After ten minutes, the whole screen is closed again. Then feed to be satisfied, but have not gained so that the remaining food to keep the water.
If the day, figure-opened again. Leave ten minutes at each other. Once complete, the screen is closed and the feed back given. Afternoon, enter into the aquarium hickey female who marries is not ready. Leave for 15-20 minutes. If the female is fierce, immediately separate them. When finished, the new feed is given.
Other training that is not less important is the drying. However, the frequency is not every day, just twice a week and about 15-20 minutes long, while faced with a hickey from another category. After that do not forget to replace the water with penyifonan (disedot), sisakan third. Then fill with water that is already diinapkan.
Ajeg make training more readily hickey conditioning included in the contest "beauty hickey." But to maintain the integrity of fin and health, before dikonteskan, hickey included in "pelatnas", specially prepared aliases. The ideal time is one week before the contest. Unbelievable!

The Aquarium Nitrogen Cycle- Fish World

Some call it the biological cycle, the nitrification process, new tank syndrome or even the start-up cycle. They all are referring to the same cycle - The Nitrogen Cycle. This very important cycle is the establishment of beneficial bacteria in the aquarium and in the filter media that will help in the conversion of ammonia to nitrite and then the conversion of nitrite to nitrates. Check out the aquarium water chemistry page (on the left) for more information on these terms.

This process can take from 2 weeks to 2 months or longer to complete. It is vital for anyone planning on keeping aquarium fish to understand this process. Learning about this process will help you to be successful in keeping fish and it should definitely improve your chances when keeping tropical fish. The best way to monitor the nitrogen cycle is to purchase an aquarium test kit that will test for ammonia, nitrites, nitrates and ph.

Test your aquarium water every other day and write down your readings. You will first see ammonia levels rising. A few weeks or so later you should see the nitrite levels rising and the ammonia levels dropping. Finally, after a few more weeks you should see the nitrate levels rising and the nitrite levels dropping. When you no longer detect ammonia or nitrites but you can detect nitrates you can assume that it is safe to add your tropical fish.

Nitrogen Cycle Stages
Stage 1
Ammonia is introduced into the aquarium via tropical fish waste and uneaten food. The tropical fish waste and excess food will break down into either ionized ammonium (NH4) or un-ionized ammonia (NH3). Ammonium is not harmful to tropical fish but ammonia is. Whether the material turns into ammonium or ammonia depends on the ph level of the water. If the ph is under 7, you will have ammonium. If the ph is 7 or higher you will have ammonia.

Stage 2
Soon, bacteria called nitrosomonas will develop and they will oxidize the ammonia in the tank, essentially eliminating it. The byproduct of ammonia oxidation is Nitrites. So we no longer have ammonia in the tank, but we now have another toxin to deal with - Nitrites. Nitrites are just as toxic to tropical fish as ammonia. If you have a test kit, you should be able to see the nitrite levels rise around the end of the first or second week.

Stage 3
Bacteria called nitrobacter will develop and they will convert the nitrites into nitrates. Nitrates are not as harmful to tropical fish as ammonia or nitrites, but nitrate is still harmful in large amounts. The quickest way to rid your aquarium of nitrates is to perform partial water changes. Once your tank is established you will need to monitor your tank water for high nitrate levels and perform partial water changes as necessary. There are other methods to control nitrates in aquariums besides water changes. For freshwater fish tanks, live aquarium plants will use up some of the nitrates. In saltwater fish tanks, live rock and deep sand beds can have anaerobic areas where denitrifying bacteria can breakdown nitrates into harmless nitrogen gas that escapes through the water surface of the aquarium.

Getting The Nitrogen Cycle Started
There are two ways to get the aquarium cycle started, either with fish or without fish.

Starting The Nitrogen Cycle With Fish
This is not the preferred way to get the nitrogen cycle started because the fish are being exposed to ammonia and nitrites during this process. Many fish can not and will not make it through the cycling process. Often times the fish become stressed and fish disease starts to break out. I wonder what percentage of disease is caused by the cycling of new aquariums?

Certain species are hardier than others and seem to tolerate the start-up cycle better than others. For freshwater tanks, the zebra danio is a very hardy fish that many use to get the nitrogen cycle started. For saltwater tanks, some have reported success using damselfish to get the process started. Again, using fish to cycle is not a good idea and you may be throwing your money (on dead fish) out the window. There is a better way. Read on, young grasshopper.

Starting The Nitrogen Cycle Fishless
There are a few different ways to get this process started. To easily get an ammonia reading from your tank water try the Seachem Ammonia Alert. It sticks inside the tank and has a circle that changes color depending on the ammonia levels in the tank.

• Option 1:
  Using Fish Food
  Drop in a few flakes every 12 hours. As the food decomposes it will release ammonia. You will have to continue to "feed" the tank throughout the process to keep it going.

• Option 2:
  Use a small piece of raw fish or a raw shrimp
  Drop a 2 inch by 1 inch chunk of raw fish or a raw shrimp into the tank. As it decomposes it will release ammonia into the tank.

• Option 3:
  Use 100% pure ammonia.
  Using a dropper, add 5 drops of ammonia per 10 gallons of aquarium water. If you don't get an ammonia reading with your test kit, add some more drops until you start to see an ammonia reading. Keep track of how many drops you've used so you can repeat this process daily. Continue to dose the tank with ammonia until you start to get nitrite readings with your test kit. Once you can detect nitrites you should only add 3 drops of ammonia per 10 gallons of aquarium water, or if you added more drops originally to get an ammonia reading cut the amount of drops used in half. Continue this process daily until you get nitrate readings with your test kit. Do a 30% water change and your tank is ready.

• Option 4:
  Use gravel and/or filter media from an established and cycled tank
  This is the best and fastest way to go. This will seed the tank with all of the necessary bacteria for the nitrogen cycle. "Feed" the tank daily with flake food until you are getting nitrate readings. Depending on how fast you were able to get the gravel and filter media into your tank, you may be getting nitrate readings in only a day or two. There are some drawbacks to this method. Ask your source if they have recently used any copper medications in the tank. If they have and you are planning to have invertebrates in the tank you should probably not use this method. Invertebrates will not tolerate copper. Get a copper test kit to determine if it's safe to use.

• Option 5:
  Using live rock in Saltwater Tanks
  The use of live rock in saltwater tanks has really taken off over the past few years. The reason for this is because it is one of the best forms of biological filtration available for saltwater tanks. The shape the rock is in when you get it will determine how long the nitrogen cycle will take. See step 7 on the saltwater setup page for more information on live rock.

Tropical Fish Tips- Fish World

New Fish Tank Tips

• Realize that if you do things correctly, this can be a long-term commitment. Some fish species can live for a very long time if cared for properly.

• Research, research and research some more. It's a really good idea to get as much information as possible on a fish before buying it. Try to find out things such as:
  • How big it will eventually get and whether you have a large enough aquarium
  • What are the aquarium water parameters it requires? Find out things such as temperature, pH ranges, etc.
  • What types of fish foods will it eat? Will it take flake foods?
  • The general temperament of the fish species. Will it get along with the fish you already have or plan to get? This is an often overlooked area that needs more attention from hobbyists.
  • Is the species known as a prolific breeder? If so, do you have the equipment needed to keep them or do you have a plan for what happens when your fish has babies? Find out if your local fish store will take the young fish. If you don't have a means of placing them then you should stick with those fish that don't breed as easily in captivity.
  • Is the fish easily susceptible to certain fish diseases?

• Get the biggest tank you can afford. A larger aquarium generally means that your aquarium water parameters will be more stable. A bigger tank gives you some room for error, like when a fish dies and you don't notice it right away. Or, for instance, when your heater breaks and the stores are closed. The water temperature should be more stable in a bigger tank.

• Learn about the fish tank nitrogen cycle. This is a crucial process that you must understand if you want to have long term success with tropical fish.

• Research aquarium equipment before you buy it. Use google (top right of this page) or any search engine, and type in the particular model you are interested in and read what others have to say about it.

• If you enjoy reading, go to the library or buy tropical fish books. Get a couple of books on aquarium information or the species you are interested in getting. Reading a book is probably the fastest way to get up to speed and it provides a great reference for the future. On this site you can find some of the fish books we've reviewed.

  Subscribe to a fish and aquarium magazine. Getting a subscription to a hobby magazine is an easy way to pick up some good tips and it also allows you to stay up to date on anything new in the hobby.

• Give your fish plenty of places to hide. Ironically, it seems the more places they have to hide the less they do hide. Hiding places can be a place of refuge for your fish and it should lower stress levels for them.

• Research the fish you would like to keep and then aquascape your tank for the fish that will be living in it. You want to be able to meet the requirements of the fish you are keeping and modifying the aquascape afterwards is sometimes not an option.

• Get and use an aquarium water test kit to monitor the aquarium nitrogen cycle. The best way to monitor this cycle is to purchase a freshwater or saltwater test kit that will test for ammonia, nitrites, nitrates and ph. Test the water coming out of your tap as well. This will arm you with more information when it comes time for those water changes.

• Don't place your tank next to a window. Sunlight entering your aquarium will cause major headaches in the form of green algae. Direct sunlight will also cause your tank water temperature to increase.

• Don't follow the 1 inch of fish per 1 gallon of water rule. A better guide would probably be 1 inch of fish per 2 or 3 gallons of water. Use the future adult size of your fish when computing how many fish you can keep. Resist the temptation to overcrowd your tank. The more tropical fish you have the more often you will have to perform fish tank maintenance.

• De-chlorinate your tap water before putting it in your tank. There are many de-chlorinators on the market.

• Get an aquarium filter that has multiple (2) media cartridges. This will allow you to change out one at a time. If you swap out all of the filter media with new media you run the risk of having to go through a mini aquarium cycle. Good power filters that hang on the back of the tank usually come with a separate floss system that you never have to change.

• Never rinse out your filter media with straight tap water. Use some of the tank water that you've just siphoned out while doing a water change. The chlorine and chloramine in the tap water will kill the nitrifying bacteria in the filter.

Stocking Fish Tips

• Slowly add fish to your tank. Never go out and buy a bunch of tropical fish because your tank's bio-load won't be able to handle it. Slowly adding fish gives your tanks biological filtration a chance to catch up.

• Slowly acclimate fish to your current setup or preferrably a quarantine tank. When bringing home new fish, dump the bag contents (fish and water) into a clean (used only for fish) 5-gallon bucket and then add about 1 cup of aquarium water to the 5 gallon bucket every 10 minutes. Continue to add 1 cup of aquarium water to the 5-gallon bucket every 10 minutes. After an hour or so your fish should be ready to add to the aquarium.

• Make sure that any new fish you are planning to add to your tank will be compatible with the current inhabitants. You need to look at temperament, water parameters and tank size requirements. For instance, please don't put a common pleco in anything under 55 gallons.

• For new tanks, be sure the fish that you add to your tank are hardy. After the tank has aged for a few months, less hardy fish can be added. A tank needs to "mature" (complete the aquarium nitrogen cycle) before it can accomodate certain species of fish. Submitted by: Dahly

Feeding Your Fish Tips

• Give your fish a variety of tropical fish food and not just flakes. Read the nutritional information on the canister of food to see what vitamins and minerals your fish is getting. Flakes can be the primary diet for many fish because they are packed with the vitamins and minerals your fish needs. However, try to supplement their diet with other types of food every once in a while. You should see better colors and increased vitality by varying their diet.

• Do not overfeed your fish. Try for two small feedings per day instead of one large feeding. Give your fish a small pinch of food and see if they eat it all within a minute or two. If you see flakes floating to the bottom of the tank, then you put in too much food. That is, unless you have bottom feeders. Overfeeding will lead to poor aquarium water quality and will increase the stress levels in your fish.

Fish Tank Maintenance Tips

• Always turn off the electricity before working in or around your tank. Use a powerstrip connected to a gfci outlet and all you have to do to turn off the electricity is flip a switch. Also, use drip loops on all of the cords or hang the power strip on the wall, thereby causing the cords to loop before reaching the plug in. Read the aquarium electrical safety article.

• Try to change some of the water in the tank on a regular basis. Small frequent (weekly or every two weeks) water changes are better than infrequent large water changes. Small water changes will cause less stress and shouldn't interfere with the biological cycle in the tank. If you have a larger tank, get a Python Vacuum or a Lee's Premier Ultimate Gravel Vac. These vacuums make doing water changes a breeze. Gravel vac only half of the tank with each water change. Switch sides on the next water change.

• Avoid wide fluctuations in your water parameters such as temperature and pH. Try to refill your aquarium with water that is as close to the current tank water as possible.

Fish Disease Tips

• Set up and use a quarantine tank. This is a small inconvenience that can really save your butt.

• Only medicate your main tank as a last resort. Use the quarantine tank setup for medicating sick fish and for monitoring new arrivals.

• Figure out what caused the fish disease or problem in the first place. Has your tank completed the aquarium nitrogen cycle? Did you quarantine the new fish? Have you been keeping up on those water changes? What are the readings on your aquarium test kits?

• Try to accurately diagnose the disease before using medication.

• Remove any carbon in your fish tank filters before using medications because the carbon will remove medication that you add to your water.

• Turn off the protein skimmer in saltwater fish tanks while medicating because it can skim off certain medicines.

Aquarium Lighting Tips

• Don't leave the fish tank lights on all of the time. Try for a 8 to 12 hour period of time for lighting. Most want to have the lights on while they are home. You can get the 8 to 12 hours needed by using a timer. For instance, set it to make the lights come on at 10am and off at 10pm. This will let you view your tank when you get home from work.

• If you are wanting to keep aquarium plants, be sure to research their light requirements first. Determine if you can meet those requirements with your existing lights or if you need more wattage, which might require a different and usually more expensive aquarium hood.

Breeding Fish Tips

• Make sure that you have the necessary equipment before you start breeding fish. If you don't have the space to keep the fry and don't have anyone you can give them to, please don't keep males and females in the same tank. This is especially applicable to those keeping livebearer fish like Mollies, Platies, the Guppy and the Swordtail.

• When breeding tropical freshwater fish, always make note of temperature, ph, water quality, food intake and unusual behavior. That way you can breed fish again easily by recreating these conditons or by observing unusual behavior between pairs. You set yourself up for the possibilities of new arrivals.
  Submitted By: Eric

Tropical Fish, Aquarium Care, Freshwater Fish, Saltwater Fish, Aquarium Setup-Fish World

Welcome to Fish Lore, a tropical fish, freshwater aquarium and saltwater aquarium information website! Fish Lore was designed for the beginner to the tropical fish keeping hobby. We try to present freshwater fish, saltwater fish and ALL aquarium fish information and aquarium care information in an easy to understand way so that more can enjoy this wonderful stress reliever that is known as fish keeping!

Aquarium fish keeping has a long history and has been a relaxing hobby for centuries. The ancient Chinese (Song Dynasty) is the first civilization thought to have kept aquarium fish for ornamental purposes. Even earlier than the Chinese though, civilizations were keeping plenty of fish in various types of holding containers for food purposes. We've come along way since then and hopefully we can help others enjoy this great hobby.

Below you will find our freshwater tropical fish tank and saltwater tropical fish tank beginner guides that will help you with your pet fish along the way. Hopefully, the aquarium beginner guides will help you learn the basics. For example, we hope you'll learn that you need to do some research before buying fish. Doing research before you purchase your fish will prevent you from doing really short sighted things with your aquarium, such as trying to stuff a pacu fish into a 10 gallon fish tank, cramping a goldfish in a small goldfish bowl, putting big fish into a small tank, putting small fish in with larger more aggressive species or putting multiple male betta fish in the same fish tank! These are obviously things we want to avoid and hopefully we can help get you going on the right track.

On the left side of the page is the main navigation that will take you to more areas all about fish. Along the right side is a listing of tropical fish profiles for both freshwater fish and saltwater fish. If you have trouble finding something, use the search box at the top right of the page.

We now have a FREE Fish Picture gallery that anyone can use to post their fish and aquarium photos. If you think you have a good image of your fish tank or your pet fish, enter it in the monthly photo contests. Winners will be announced at the end of each month